Jag läste denna text som jag tyckte bra förklarade skillnaderna på olika typer av mattskivor.
"I currently have an option to get Eg-S for my 5DII for about $40 or get new Brighscreen Proscreen 5 for $100 (which is about $75 off retail price). What would you recommend?
Responses
Joseph Wisniewski , May 18, 2010; 09:29 p.m.
That depends entirely on what you're shooting. The two screens you mention are entirely opposites of each other, so the decision really depends on what you shoot.
Modern OEM (camera manufacturer provided) screens are "low scatter" bright screen types. They scatter light over about a 10 degree angle. That means that light from anywhere on a 10 degree "cone" from the exit pupil (read view of the aperture) to your eye's pupil contributes to what you see in the viewfinder. That corresponds to a portion of the lens's image when stopped down to about f5.6. So, what you see in the viewfinder has about the same DOF and brightness whether you use an f1.4 lens, and f2.8 lens, or an f4 lens. An f5.6 lens looks a little dimmer, but nowhere near a stop dimmer. Since you're always seeing about f5.6 DOF, this makes it hard to manually focus an f1.4 lens to see the exact plane of focus.
The EG-S is an old fashioned "high scatter" screen. It scatters light over about a 20 degree angle, a cone closer to f2.8. So, you see a lot shallower DOF in the viewfinder than you're used to. You see objects really "snap" into focus, and you get more of an idea what the actual DOF will be when you use the DOF preview button. But you need fast lenses to get a bright viewfinder image with a high scatter screen. An f5.6 super zoom will look considerably dimmer with an EG-S than it looks with the camera's stock screen. It's great for manually focusing shallow DOF portraits, and good for macro , if your lens has an "effective f stop" of f4 or higher at your desired magnification.
The brightscreen is an old-fashioned very low scatter screen, maybe 5 degrees of scatter. You see almost no DOF in the screen, but you see a bright "aerial" image. They're great for MF cameras or 35mm, when you're shooting fashion or portrait on studio strobes and are going to be working primarily at f16-f32. They're also pretty good for wildlife shooters who like to pile a 2x TC on a 500mm f4 and end up at effective f8."
