Colombia Feb 24

Again, I had the fortune to go on a birding holiday with my friend Nick Armstrong from England. By now we have been to several destinations the last 10 years. After having successful trips to Brazil and Argentina, we now decided to go to Colombia which is the country in the world that hold most species (about 1905 species last count). As time was limited for me we had an intense 12 days trip including 2 travel days and days travelled were Feb 16-28. We decided to visit the western Andes around the cities of Pereira and Manizales. Here there are some of the best places in all of Colombia and not very far away from each other. We visited fabulous Montezuma Lodge, Rio Blanco, Termales del Ruiz in Los Nevados NP and finally Tinamú lodge. 
We were picked up by a pre-booked driver who took us for a 4 hour drive to Montezuma. It's a lovely spot at the edge of the national park and is runed by a mother and her 4 daughters. The mother was a birding pioneer and succeded in preserving the lodge as an oasis for birding enthusiasts. Yesenia who was our guide is very skillful in the birds as well as very polite. Highly recommended if you go there. Here's a picture from a Colombian magazine showing the family (Yesennia to the right) and a pic from the dining area at the lodge.

The lodge itself is situated close to a river which holds some really good birds but also the lawns and feeders by the lodge offer lots of birds, especially loads of hummingbirds. A total of 30 different hummingbirds through the year are possible. Here a fabulous male of Violet-tailed Sylph, two Collared Incas and a couple of White-necked Jacobins. Last one is a Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, which can be seen widely in central and south America.

Visiting Montezuma means you will need a local guide and transport as more or less all birding, except in the direct vicinity of the lodge, is made from the road that leads up to the top (military base). Each area has its specialties. At the top there are a picnic table and a few feeders. here you can enjoy fabulous views of the mountains and some special birds. Here a few Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercers, Andean Emeralds, Tourmaline Sunangels and Green Honeycreepers occur. Also a stunning view of the mountains and and a photo of me, Nick and our fantastic guide Yesennia.

On the way down toward the lodge we did several stops and saw Municique Wood-wren, several Cinnamon Flycatchers, a nice W Ornate Flycatcher and the rare Gold-ringed Tanager.

At one stop we saw one of my targets, a Hooded Ant-pitta. Ant-pittas are a fabulous group of birds, very secretive and hard to see but can responde to play-back and also visit special feeding stations with worms.

Along the road town towards the lodge you will make several stops. Your guide will know where and they also have a few platform with one or two feeders. Not a bird but a magical sighting was this mini wasp colony of small nests. Not more than one cm and "glued" under one of the picknick tables. Also an awesome "glass-winged butterfly" with transparent wings and the near-threatened Purplish-mantled Tanager.

A few more of the birds seen on the way down were this rather rare Yellow-collared Chlorophonia (bad pic), Southern Emerald Toucanet and a female Green and Black Fruiteater.

Our driver and us resting as well as a short walk in pure rainforest and an extremely small orchid as well as a curious Green-crowned Brilliant.

Back at the lodge we continued to enjoy the fabulous surroundings with more birds as this Black-chested Jay which they took care of a year ago after a raptor incident.  Next hummingbird is a female of the Violet-tailed Sylph. You would easily think it's a male concidering the bright colours but sometimes the females also are stunning. An other easily seen gem is the Green Thorntail, female and male.

An absolutely stunning bird is the easily seen Velvet-purple Coronet. How could these colours be for real. Still, photos do not show all variations.

Me and Nick leaving for next great lodge, Rio Blanco.

Rio Blanco natural reserve is just outside the town of Manizales. The lodge itself is located at around 2500 meters and you walk up to 2800 during your visit. This lodge is famous for having 5 differnt Ant-pittas coming out for worms at special feeding stations. It's quite a spectacle as the guides call them by their given names and they have adapted to special times during the day when worm are served. We managed to see 4 of them during our stay which feels good as rain had made snails coming up from the mud and giving no actual reason to go extra for worms. Hera you can see Bicolored Antpitta, Slaty-crowned Antpitta, Chestnut-crowned Antpitta and finally the rarest, the Brown-banded Antpitta.

Close to these feeders you well most likely encounter some other birds showing interest for the food. This male Green and Black Fruiteater came out many times as did the Gray-browed Brushfinch.

Below, one of the famous local guides doing everything he can to attract the Antpitta to show up.

Here, as well as most places in this country, hummingbirds are a major attraction. One of the star birds is of course the Long-tailed Sylph (very similar to .... seen at Montezuma. The most common one is the handsome Buff-tailed Coronet.

The smallest of them here at Rio Blanco is the Speckled Hummingbird, just about 7-8 cm. In some way even more amazing than the bigger and more sparkling ones.

I tried quite a few times to capture a hummer when flying which is a true challenge. One of the few results to show is this Brown Inca which I managed to "nail" on its way towards a feeder.

The last day we went for a walk downwards. Chance of many other birds we had good moments with the following birds: Sickle-winged Guan, Berryl-spangeled Tanager, Barred Becard and Andean Motmot.

A few pics of the lodge itself and the surroundings. In the evening, people who stays overnight, gather in the small restaurant and enjoy hospitality and a lot of moths.

After After 3 nights here we continued towards Hotel Termales del Ruiz which is situated at 3500 m in Los Nevados NP. Our driving guide Ana Lucia Londono once again came a picked us up. On the way up we stopped at a hot spot for Noble Snipe, one of my targets. Unfortunately, a farm has recently been established here and no snipe was to be seen. 

We continued to 4200 where the rare but local Buffy Helmetcrest was seen. This is a highly specialized hummingbird only to be found in this area and on high elevation. Photo below shows me, Nick and our good and enthusiastic driver, Ana Lucia, who took us from place to place during the whole trip. Down also a scenic picture of the vulcano at Los Nevados NP.

At this time I didn't feel much of the hight we were at but later on I had a strong reaction. When I went to Argentina a few years ago I also had problems but got rid of them whith some medical help and 20 minutes of oxygen. This time however, I didn't get any better though I tried to aclamtice to the hight. The following night was really terrible with strong headache and high pulse. Day time is easier to cope with and even we had to shorten our stay here to go lower down, we managed to see quite a few of the star birds here.  Without doubt, the Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, is the true gem here. I never came close for a good shot but show it here because of its brilliance if you see it well. 

There is a big feeding area here and it's easy to have splendid views of beauties like Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, Lacrimose Mountain Tanager (2) and next to the road several Pale-naped Brushfinches.

Termales del Ruiz is also a "thermal hotel" with hot springs, giving guesst the opportunity to taake warm and relaxing baths during their stay. Several pools and the best food during our trip is definately worth mentioning. The most common (very common) of the hummingbirds is the very "aggressive" Shining Sunbeam (front and back).

Once again, the local guide shows the happening of the present Antpitta. Here Tawny Antpitta arrives every morning when the guide calls it by name. Slowly and quietly it approches for breakfast. Fantastic birds and always a memorable moment.

Not as frequent and strongly chased away by the Shining Sunbeams, were a few other hummer like this big and beautiful Great Saphirewing male sitting and female flying and the handsome Golden-breasted Puffleg.

Flowerpiercers are special group of birds with its semi-hooked bill. We saw 4 species during our trip and the Glossy was quite common here at Termales del Ruiz.

As told earlier, I didn't feel good at this high elevation and Ana Lucia had to pick us up earlier than planned. We stayed one night in Manizales before we drove towards our last place, the iconic Tinamu Lodge. This lodge is at lower elevation and boats different species. Climate change seems to make quite some changes and the amount of hummingbirds normally active around the feeders were completely absent. However, we saw many beautiful birds here as well. Inside the forest there are a few leks with the absolutely gorgeous Manakin and the handsome Green Hermit.

The owners of Tinamu have protected a rather smallish area of true forest and not far away from it you will find coffee plantations and other agriculture habits. Here you see the restaurants and how quick the plantations are.

Firsta night we went for a shorter night walk, hoping to see or hear some local owls. No owls but this Paraque was sitting on the lawn. Next to it a remarkable tree, which flowers open up during the dark time and close during day time.

At Tinamu there are several fruit feeders which in contrast to the hummingbird feeders, attracted several other species.  The Red-crowned woodpecker was frequent as well as the Andean Motmot. Some other strange and special flowers seen were these below. Don't know the name of them though.

Birds are obviously the main attraction but this glassed shower/ bathroom in our room and the giant Guan Lizard were as memorable as many birds.

Last evening we spent the last hours on a terrace looking out through the beautiful scenery and having a well deserved beer. Also a picture of us and our excellent local guide and a happy meeting with the Moustached Puffbird.

Our plan included one more day at Tinamu but as we had seen most of the possible birds we decided to go to an other place before heading towards the airport, not far from Pereira, the Otún Quimbaya reserve which holds a few different birds from the places we have visited so far. Here we saw the rare Red-ruffed Fruitcrow (at nest) as well as an Andean Guan.

One of the absolute last birds we saw was this Bare-faced Ibis. Also one of the most commonly seen birds, the Great Thrush.

A great experience to visit this country but I must say, the hummingbirds are the biggest draw. Take care Colombia!!